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Gel nails and fiberglass nails have become extremely popular in recent years, both among professionals and among people who like to take care of their nails at home.
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Both techniques offer a beautiful, long-lasting and resistant finish, but they have different procedures.
In this complete guide, you'll learn detailed step-by-step instructions for creating gel nails and fiberglass nails, with tips for achieving professional results.
In addition to aesthetics, these techniques also contribute to strengthening natural nails and allow for incredible customizations in length, shape, and decoration.
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Whether for personal or professional use, mastering these methods can open doors in the beauty market, as well as ensuring flawless nails for much longer. It's important, however, to follow all steps carefully to avoid damaging your natural nail and ensure a long-lasting, safe finish.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Before beginning any of the techniques, it's essential to have all the materials on hand. Some are common to both techniques, while others are specific to each type.
Common materials:
- Sanding block (buffer)
- Banana sandpaper (100/180 grit)
- Acid-free primer
- Prep (nail dehydrator)
- Gel base
- Clear UV or LED gel (or cover, depending on preference)
- LED or UV booth
- Cleanser or alcohol 70%
- Gel brush (number 4 or 6, synthetic bristles)
- Cuticle pusher or spatula
- Nail clippers or pliers
- Wooden toothpick or curling tweezers
- Cuticle oil
For fiberglass nails:
- Glass fibers in strips or loose strands
- Small scissors
- Fiber-specific gel (thicker)
STEP 1: NAIL PREPARATION
Before beginning to apply the gel or fiber, it's essential to properly prepare the natural nail. This step ensures better adhesion of the product and increases the nail's durability.
- Hygiene: Wash your hands thoroughly and sanitize all instruments. Rub alcohol or hand sanitizer on your nails and fingers.
- Push and remove the cuticle: Using a spatula or toothpick, gently push back the cuticle. If necessary, remove excess cuticle with pliers or a curette, being careful not to hurt yourself.
- Shine removal: Using a file block or a banana file, gently remove the shine from the natural nail. The goal isn't to thin the nail, but to make it matte to improve product adhesion.
- Cutting and leveling: Cut and level your natural nails, leaving them with a similar shape and length.
- Dehydration and preparation: Apply the prep (dehydrator) on all nails and then the primer acid-free. Let it air dry for a few seconds.
STEP 2: GEL NAIL (STEP BY STEP)
Gel nails are made with a special gel that is molded onto the natural nail or onto a mold (or tips) and cured in a UV or LED cabin.
Step 1: Choosing the mold or tips
You can work with adhesive mold (reusable form placed under the nail) or with tips (plastic extensions glued to the nail). The choice depends on the shape and desired length.
- For the mold: position correctly under the nail, ensuring alignment with the finger.
- For the tip: glue it to the tip of the nail with special glue, wait for it to dry and cut it to the desired length.
Step 2: Applying the gel base
Using the brush, apply a thin layer of gel base coat over the entire natural nail. Take it to the salon for 30 seconds to 1 minute (depending on the power of your cabin).
Step 3: Applying the builder gel
Take a small amount of builder gel with the brush and apply it to the nail, shaping it. Start from the center and work outward. If using a mold, extend the gel to the desired length.
- Tip: Turn the client's hand upside down for a few seconds before taking it to the booth so the gel can self-level.
- Take it to the cabin by 1 to 2 minutes.
Step 4: Curvature and reinforcement layer
Remove the mold (if using) and shape the shape with the curling tongs or a toothpick. Then, apply another layer of gel to reinforce the structure and return it to the salon.
Step 5: Cleaning the gum and sanding
After curing, clean the gel with cleanser or 70% alcohol. Use a banana file to shape it into the desired shape (square, oval, almond, etc.). Use the sanding block to level and smooth the surface.
Step 6: Finalization
Apply a layer of gel top coat and let it dry for 1 minute. Finish with cuticle oil.
STEP 3: FIBERGLASS NAIL (STEP BY STEP)
Fiberglass nails use very fine threads that are applied to the nail and covered with gel, providing an extremely resistant and natural structure.
Step 1: Fiber Application
After preparing the nail, measure and cut the fiber to the required size. Carefully position the fibers on the natural nail or the glued tip, ensuring they are well centered.
- Use a toothpick or tweezers to adjust the position of the fiber, pressing lightly on the nail to secure it.
Step 2: Fixing with gel
Apply a thin layer of gel to the fiber to set it. Use a gel brush, pressing gently to coat the entire fiber. Heat for 1 to 2 minutes.
Step 3: Building Layers
Using the thicker fiber gel, apply a shaping layer, molding the shape and curvature of the nail. Leave it in the salon for another 1 to 2 minutes.
- Tip: Work in thin layers to avoid bubbles and buildup.
Step 4: Curving and reinforcing
Remove the gum with the cleanser and shape the nail if necessary. Apply a second coat of gel for reinforcement and return to the salon.
Step 5: Sanding and finishing
Sand the sides, top, and curve to even out the edges. Use the sanding block to polish the surface. After sanding, apply a top coat and take it to the salon. Finish with cuticle oil.
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN GEL AND FIBERGLASS
- Texture: The gel has a thicker texture from the start. The fiber is structured with hairs and requires several layers of gel to form the nail body.
- Durability: Both have great strength, but fiberglass is usually even more durable and thinner.
- Appearance: Fiberglass provides a more natural and lightweight appearance.
- Indication: Gel is best suited for beginners. Fiber requires more technique and precision when placing the strands.
MAINTENANCE AND DURATION
Gel and fiberglass nails last between 2 to 4 weeks, depending on the care and natural growth of the nail. Maintenance (also called stretching maintenance) must be done during this period, and consists of:
- File the transition between the gel and the natural nail.
- Fill the grown space with gel.
- Reapply top coat and take it to the booth.
- Finish with cuticle oil.
POST-APPLICATION CARE
To keep your nails beautiful and healthy:
- Avoid opening packages or using your nails as tools.
- Wear gloves when doing household chores with chemicals.
- Moisturize your cuticles daily with oil.
- Perform regular maintenance.
CONCLUSION
Both gel and fiberglass nails are great options for those who want long, strong, and professional-looking nails. Gel is more practical and ideal for beginners, while fiberglass, while more complex, offers a more natural and elegant look.
Mastering these techniques requires practice, patience, and attention to detail, especially when it comes to nail preparation and curvature. If you plan to work professionally in nail extensions, it's worth investing in specific courses to ensure safety, quality, and client satisfaction.
With this detailed step-by-step guide, you'll have a solid foundation to begin applying and developing your skills with gel and fiberglass nails.
